Відео

Expert wood plane sharpener (and scrapers) have to know how to remove a bur and how to use a bur. Luthiers use those tools to thin the bodies with different finishes.

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I have never stopped with newspaper. I have always used leather on a nice strip of wood with the green oxide. Does newspaper do something more that leather would not. I can get a pretty good edge on my knife but it never seems like it gets the really nice fine edge. It’s a custom made knife high carbon steel . Good quality steel. Thank you.

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funniest thing. i cut my fingertips off about 6 weeks ago sharpening my chefs knife while drunk. I feel like this video called me out directly without naming me haha. Such a wonderful educational video about the technical details of the sharpening process. you have personally upped my game when it comes to blade maintenance

Badass sir

Fine show, Mate. Thanks, now I want to sharpen all me knives. Really enjoyed it. I'm going to watch it again.

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Murray is a living legend. Awesome.

Uhmm no not my fingers I have had blades slice and I never new I cut them and bled profusely.

This is great. Thank you for taking the time to teach this much needed skill. I salute you Sir.

I've seen people get shaving sharp from 400 grit stones, pretty sure Carter can achieve shaving sharp with 1000 and 6000. The only thing I wonder is how my straight razor's stopping mechanism when closed is the spine thickness, so will I eventually have a freely spinning knife from removing material from the spine thickness as well? But if you are really bothered by scratch marks on the spine, just go up the grits on stones to 12k or higher and get it back to shiny mirror.

All you ignorant dummies talking about this man's Robe Obviously skipped the part in the video where he mentioned all the years he spent in JAPAN making and sharpening knives. He is representing the Culture of the people who taught him. If you ain't got anything INTELLIGENT to say...don't speak at all..

Now for your balls.

Murray Carter doesn't disagree right away on flattening stones... What a change!

Sounds like part of the difficulty in giving Forged In Fire credibility is the lack of transparency in what you're getting into. It seems really hard to try to have an ultimate test since there are so many applications and decisions based on the use and desired features, that you can't just match any kind of blade against each other and test them in a certain way without them being comparable in purpose. Like you wouldn't match claymore and katana against each other, it just doesn't make too much sense. If you're trying to draw conclusions from the bladesmith's skill and put them in order like that, it's somewhat apples to oranges and doing a disservice to all if it's reviewed too one-dimensionally. Essentially it sounds like a nightmare job, making design choices blindly trying to guess what the customer is using it for. Turns out when you guess wrong for what you're judged for, it's not your skill that is reviewed but your luck. If you get to know the test before hand, you can actually make educated decisions and perfect your choices towards that. Also pretty fascinating that a lot of the decisions also just come down to what you have at hand in the timeframe given. Cool that the experience still managed to teach something useful. To me it seems like better than the shows is when the professionals explain their choices, what they did and why.

Under which circumstances would you recommend attempting a re-heattreat versus abandoning the blade? So if grain size is the issue, then abandon? If quench/tempering suspected, attempt a retreat?

How can I learn to sharpen scissors like that?

Rest in Peace ❤️🕊️

Two hours of a white guy in a bathrobe pretending to be a Japanese Samurai, sharpening knives, I was always told is the wrong way (⚠️🚫↔️...✅️👍➡️) Right or wrong , this has git to fully watched , memorized and recreated into a spoof version. 📢 HONEY! Quick, wake up! Grab the bag, the pipe,the lighter, and the video camera! Where making another "UA-cam production" spoof video. Ohhhh this is good stuff. Ohhhh and bring your robe.

Hello Murray, i am an absolute fan of yours..i was wondering if you would be so inclined as to exchange one of your custom kitchen knife against one of my custom razors.

I don't think most people know thar it's important to remove metal from the primary bevel (secondary edge). They don't want to scuff their knives

Barkeepers friend is better than comet. No bleach to ruin your clothes

Do you need one of those robes to get your knives sharp???😅😅😅😅

they do it for aesthetics, because it looks cool not because it's more function. it's obviously less functional.

Non ho mio visto affilate un colyello tanto

1h in, first time viewing, can already tell I'll be watching this multiple times and won't need to look for another video on the subject. thanks a lot!

I love your knives for the care and attention on them. Although I got to admit I hate to use them because they are so pretty.

He's like Bob Ross for knives!

Loved this tyvm :)

or you can just cut something like a ripe tomato instead of risking hurting yourself. idk.

Thank you for all that you do for the knife community

Naturally you prefer to highlight the comments raving about how you've saved their life, but where's mine where I call BS on your "17 generations of blade smiths". To my surprise you responded to it recently,after 4 or 5 years. I had quite forotten about it, but now you're reminded me again after hearing your absurd claim to 17 generations. I challenged you to support this claim with some kind of evidence, but I'm still waiting. Nothing personal here,mind you. You may be the God of Knives himself, but I do worry about outrageous and impossible claims that might hoodwink innocent people who don't know any better. After all, a generation is generally taken to mean 30 years, so 17 of them is stretching back over 500 years, which is before surnames even came into common use, unless for royalty, and I'm guessing you aint that. So please, again, do you have any credible evidence that you're not just throwing shit out here to puff yourself up?

This guy really doesn't know as much as he portrays. Many examples would be: Claiming that diamond stones "can leave too deep of a scratch pattern" even though if that's happening that just means you're using too coarse of a grit. Knocking off a bur by pulling your knife through wood. That is almost never a good idea. Using anything besides diamond stones on steels that are incredibly hard like 60-61 HRC+. This will take so unbelievably long and not even give you a very good edge in the end. Completely disregarding fixed angled systems as if you can't adjust angle on them to suit your needs if you actually have a system that costs more than $20, as well as insinuating that they're useless due to the fact that they can't regrind your knife when that's almost never necessary with quality knives or even if you're just smart and buy a knife that's thin to begin with. Claiming that he sharpened a knife on a dirty 2 by 4 when that's physically impossible because neither wood nor dirt would have any effect on a steel that could be referred to as sharpening. He also claims to sharpen knives on the back of cups when that's also not going to happen with such a fine ceramic surface. The best you'll be able to do is realign an edge or hone but not actually do a full sharpening. Using a 6000 grit stone right after a 1000 grit is WAY too much of a jump to be effective. Maybe with a 2000 in between but even then you would probably want something between 2000 and 6000 Many times when he flips the knife over to sharpen the other side he's going in the entirely wrong direction. Even while admitting that you should always sharpen at the angle you cut, he goes backwards. His knives aren't even all that sharp. You can easily tell when he's cutting paper at 2:11:17 that it's BARELY even slicing. A much better test would be cutting paper towel but he would never do that test because it would show his lackluster edges. Totally misusing the term "strop". He's simply doing reverse passes on a stone but referring to it as stropping when strapping is using something like a leather and an abrasive. Straight up saying that Japanese water stones are "the best" when objectively speaking no stone is the best, it mainly depends on what you're trying to do, but if anything was going to be labeled "the best" it definitely wouldn't be water stones. Giving any validity to butcher steels when those do nothing but destroy your edges and have no abrasive to actually even hone. Completely not understanding the purpose/proper way to use a ceramic nor understanding that just because a ceramic has some steel in it it will still work for its intended use. There are many more but I don't have the time or desire to pick them all out. This is just to say you should find someone else to learn sharpening from especially for pocket knives. As far as kitchen knife sharpening instructions go, this video is okay at best but is very unnecessarily long while also not giving the best descriptions of what's actually going on for newbies.

In the ramtops, they say a persons life is measured by their actions, your knives will keep you alive for many years, and your process many years more.

Sounds like 9 min of excuses.

Thank you so much, I am ready to put a final edge on my first knife I have made. Really happy to have found your video on establishing a convex edge.

I have found out taking a angle or degree starting at 80 grit making sure you get and I mean get sat 17 degree angle really making you work work knowing you are getting the angle or degree getting as much steel off established angle

What’s the stones he’s using anyone know and also what’s best stone that’s around 50$ ?

These older videos were so much better than the newer nano hone ones

Where can I get the typical stone you got?

I tried this test and now every time I need to count to ten I have to take my socks off.

My father was in the lumber industry his entire life. He said that when you take a band saw blade (the large band saws for cutting logs into boards) in for sharpening, the sharpening service will hold on to the band saw blade for 48 hrs after they finish sharpening the band blade. The reason being the (I guess tensils) go through a settling process after sharpening/tensioning and it takes them 48 hrs to settle. If you use the band saw blade before 48 hrs, the steel teeth will dull very quickly. Another crazy thing is he said that if you take two large band saw blades (for log cutting) that are exactly alike, and you put each of them on a band saw machine and on one of them you cut 1000 boards and on the other blade you simply put it on the machine, set your tension to correct tension level, and then cut the machine on and but do not cut any logs/boards with that blade. He said as long as both machines/band blades were cut on and off at the same time, the two band blades will have dulled exactly the same. I said how is that possible? It seems like the one cutting wood would be much more dull. He said the wood does not dull those kinds of blades - the extremelly high centrifugal force of going around on those pulleys combined with the high tension that the pulleys have to be set to so the band blade stays firm is what dulls those kinds of steel/blades. The steel is under a different kind of strain/force that a round disc blade or a flat blade is not subjected to and the steel is affected much differently. I just always thought that was bizarre.

Got a question but not dealing with cooking knives / wetstones but with hand files and a machete. If I lay a machete on a table (east - west) and the cutting edge facing away from me and the cutting edge is also running east-west and I have a hand file, when I "push" the hand file to sharpen it, should the hand file be positioned 90 degrees (north-south) when you begin filing? Reason I ask is the fine little cutting lines (sorry i dont know what those are called on a hand file) appear to be maybe 30-45 degrees if you call the length of the file 0 degrees. Or should you turn the hand file until the angle of those cutting lines is parallel with the machete's edge - then push file it once you match up with that angle? Or should you just keep the hand file perpendicular with the machete?

.....must..be....good...for...slashing.🧐..dont...like...either...!!!

honestly. all you need unless the razor is damaged is one stone. one finishing stone. I find naniwa super stones to be the best. it really doesn't matter which one you use. i use the 12k. then you can strop it a little. i use hanging stop in order to slightly convex the edge and make the shave nicer. guys make this stuff much too needlessly complicated. You don't even need a stone. get some soft wood and some 1 to 3 um diamond slurry. strop it on that for a minute. then convex it on a hanging stop. if the razor is damaged, create a new bevel with a stone... what stone? I've fixed chipped razors with nothing more than a single finishing stone. it takes minutes. carbon steel abrades like butter. guys that take razors to course stones are idiotic .